10 ideas for an autumn holiday in Savoie

Autumn empties the trails, turns the larches golden and reopens the cheese-ageing cellars. Between Haute-Tarentaise and Lac du Bourget, Savoie keeps its finest assets, without the summer crowds. From our campsite in Savoie, in Landry, the Eden de la Vanoise team sees these holidaymakers every year, who prefer low-angled light to queues.

Here are 10 practical outings for a successful autumn holiday in Savoie, from the Champagny valley to the vineyards of Chignin.

Champagny-le-Haut: 4 hamlets at the foot of the glaciers

This listed valley is explored on an easy loop along the Doron, between La Chiserette, Le Bois, Friburge and Laisonnay. Stone-slab roofs, wooden balconies and chapels punctuate the route, with the Vanoise glaciers as a backdrop. In October, the larches turn orange-yellow on both slopes, making it one of the most beautiful settings in the area. The route suits families, on foot or by bike.

Visitors' favourite: the waterfalls at the head of the valley, visible from the path without any detour.

Practical information:

• The start is at the Couaz dam car park, in Champagny-en-Vanoise.
• The loop is 10.9 kilometres long with 162 metres of ascent.
• Allow 1 hour by bike, longer on foot.
• The level is very easy, on a waymarked route.

Lac de la Plagne: a 5-hour walk in the Vanoise

From the Rosuel refuge, in Peisey-Nancroix, the Ponturin valley opens the door to the Vanoise National Park. The trail follows the GR5, crosses mountain pastures and skirts wetlands before reaching the lake. It is also one of the areas where the deer rut echoes in autumn, early in the morning. The climb requires stamina, but the setting is worth the effort.

Visitors' favourite: the Entre-le-Lac refuge, where you can fish for rainbow trout by the water.

Practical information:

• The start is at the Rosuel refuge, in Peisey-Nancroix.
• The loop covers 14.77 kilometres with 702 metres of ascent.
• Allow 5 hours of walking on a route graded difficult.

The deer rut: the highlight of September

This is an activity that only exists at this time of year. A guide takes the group at the end of the day to the far end of the Champagny-le-Haut valley to listen to the stags during the rut. The males' hoarse bellowing carries far in the silence of the deserted pastures. The group is deliberately kept small, 12 participants at most, so as not to disturb the animals. Booking is required.

Visitors' favourite: the moment when the stags answer each other from one slope to the other, just before nightfall.

Practical information:

• The meeting point is the Laisonnay car park, in Champagny-le-Haut.
• Prices start from €8 per person.
• Groups have a minimum of 6 and a maximum of 12 participants, booking required.
• Bring binoculars, good shoes and a rain jacket.

Tarentaise greenway: 15 flat kilometres along the Isère

This tarmac path links Aime to Bourg-Saint-Maurice along the valley floor, without the slightest difficulty. It runs right next to our mobile home rentals in Savoie, making it the easiest outing to organise during your autumn holiday in Savoie. Cyclists, joggers and families use it all day long. The greenway stays usable until snow reaches the valley, often until November.

Visitors' favourite: the leisure park, directly accessible from the greenway, 2.5 kilometres from the centre of Aime.

Practical information:

• The route covers 15 kilometres between Aime and Bourg-Saint-Maurice.
• The tarmac surface suits cycling, rollerblading and walking.
• Motor vehicles and horses are not allowed.
• Keep your dog on a lead along the whole route.

Beaufortain dairy cooperative: Beaufort cheese in the making

In Arêches-Beaufort, the cooperative opens its workshop to the public and you can watch Beaufort AOP being made every morning. The visitor area combines scent boxes, audio testimonies and models, which appeal to children and adults alike. It is a safe bet on rainy days, which are common during an autumn holiday in Savoie. A visit to the ageing cellars completes the experience with a tasting.

Visitors' favourite: the smell of the ageing cellars, where hundreds of wheels rest on spruce boards.

Practical information:

• The address is avenue du Capitaine Bulle, 73270 Arêches-Beaufort.
• The self-guided visit is free, every day from 9 am to 12 pm and from 2 pm to 6 pm.
• The cellar tour costs from €3, with departures every hour.

Cormet de Roselend: 1,968 metres before it closes

This legendary pass on the Route des Grandes Alpes overlooks the Roselend reservoir. In autumn, the pastures empty and the light completely transforms the landscape. Be aware, however: the road closes in mid-October, which shortens the window for crossing. The bikers and cyclists staying at our campsite often make the most of it in the first weeks of September.

Visitors' favourite: the peaks reflected in Lake Roselend, seen from the dam when the wind drops.

Practical information:

• The pass is in the municipality of Arêches-Beaufort, at an altitude of 1,968 metres.
• The road is open from late May to mid-October, depending on conditions.
• There is a car park at the pass, with no food outlets or public toilets.

Col de l’Iseran: the highest paved pass in the Alps

From Bonneval-sur-Arc, the road climbs to 2,764 metres before dropping into Haute-Maurienne. It is one of the last major passes accessible in autumn, making it an ideal goal for a day trip. The village of Bonneval-sur-Arc has kept its stone-slab roofs and dry-stone walls, with no modern buildings.

Visitors' favourite: the lanes of Bonneval-sur-Arc, deserted on weekdays once the school year has started.

Practical information:

• The pass reaches 2,764 metres, between Val-d’Isère and Bonneval-sur-Arc.
• The road is open from June to November, closing on the first Monday of November.
• Dress warmly: temperatures drop quickly at this altitude.

The Esseillon forts: the Sardinian barrier, open all year

Above the Arc gorges, in Aussois, five Sardinian forts form a defensive complex unique in the Alps. The Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia built them between 1815 and 1830 against a French invasion via the Mont-Cenis. Three of them can be visited all year round, freely or on a guided tour. The grey stone and the October larches make one of the most beautiful settings of your autumn holiday in Savoie.

Visitors' favourite: the treasure trail at Fort Victor-Emmanuel, which keeps children busy while parents explore the casemates.

Practical information:

• The forts are spread between Aussois and Avrieux, in the Maurienne.
• The Redoute Marie-Thérèse is at the Esseillon barrier, RD 1006, 73500 Avrieux.
• Prices at the Redoute start from €2 for ages 7 to 17 and €4 for adults.
• The Redoute is open to the public until 21 September, the other forts remain accessible.

The towers of Chignin: 3.3 km through the vineyards at harvest time

Head to the Combe de Savoie, where the grape harvest begins around mid-September. This very easy trail links the medieval towers of Chignin, high above the vineyard plots. The 16th-century Saint-Anthelme chapel and the view of the Roc de Torméry punctuate the loop. Pushchairs and all-terrain wheelchairs (joëlettes) can manage the whole route, a rare feature on a wine trail.

Visitors' favourite: the colour of the Jacquère vine leaves after the harvest, between gold and rust.

Practical information:

• The start is at the Clos Dénarié car park, in Chignin.
• The loop is 3.3 kilometres long with 94 metres of ascent.
• Allow 1 hour 20 minutes of walking, at a very easy level.
• Access is free and open all year.

Hautecombe Abbey: crossing Lac du Bourget

From the Grand Port in Aix-les-Bains, the boat crosses France's largest natural lake to the royal abbey of Hautecombe. The Dukes of Savoy already used this waterway. The stop lasts 1 hour 30 minutes, plenty of time to visit the abbey church and walk along the shore. Morning mists then give the lake an atmosphere that summer never knows.

Visitors' favourite: the view of the Dent du Chat from the upper deck, on the way out and back.

Practical information:

• Boarding is at place Édouard Herriot, at the Grand Port in Aix-les-Bains.
• The cruise lasts 2 hours 30 minutes, including a 1 hour 30 minute stop.
• Prices start from €14 for ages 4 to 12 and €18.50 for adults.
• A visit to the abbey church costs an extra €4.50, payable on site.

Planning your autumn holiday in Savoie

A few good habits help you avoid unpleasant surprises at this time of year:

• Check that the passes are open before each high-altitude outing, closures come quickly.
• Set off early in the morning to enjoy the best light and spot wildlife.
• Wear layers: temperature differences often exceed 15 degrees during the day.
• Book guided tours in advance, opening hours shrink once the school year starts.

Our indoor pool, heated to between 28 and 30 degrees, is a pleasant way to round off days of walking, 15 minutes from Les Arcs. Then the season changes: when snow reaches the valley, our winter campsite reopens at the foot of the Paradiski ski area, with free shuttles, heated washrooms and boot dryers.

“Many of our guests do a hike in the Vanoise in the morning and the indoor pool at the end of the day, a real late-season rhythm”, says the team at the Eden de la Vanoise campsite.

Looking for a comfortable base to explore the Tarentaise out of season, between hikes, passes and villages? Book your stay at the Eden de la Vanoise campsite, in Landry, and find more ideas for holidays in Savoie on our blog.